Years ago there was a TV show about a talking car. Unless you are from another planet, physically or otherwise, I don’t think our internal combustion buddies will talk and tell us their problems. But, on the other hand, there is a secret language that our mechanical companions readily do speak. It is an interesting form of communication that involves all the senses of the listener. In this series we are going to investigate and learn the basic rudimentary skills of understanding this lingo.

Many older tractors like to talk in the form of colors. They leave this assorted array of rainbow hues that cover most of the spectrum on concrete floors and driveways. Since they are never in a real hurry this usually occurs overnight and shows up the next morning as puddles somewhere under the unit. Since the older iron has had years to refine this specialized form of communication it gives us every advantage in understanding what it is trying to say. For example, the puddles are under the part that is leaking. Well, hey, you say...duh! But when you think about it, the newer tractors and vehicles that travel at fast speeds tend to have the wind whip the leaking fluid, causing it to travel the length of the unit making it rough to find its source. High pressure systems designed to do things in a hurry can spray fluids many feet away from the real problem and send you on a wild goose chase to places you’ve never been before. They are in such a rush that they don’t take the time to be user friendly and talk to us so we can hear them. We can conclude, therefore, that the term, gentleman’s tractor, has more of a hidden meaning to it. Let’s take a look now at the types of puddle colors our tractor is leaving and what it is trying to tell us.

Hues of Brown

Probably the most common residue left by our tractor on the floor is the color brown. Brown can cover many types of hues, from blackish to tan. Generally it is an indication of some type of oil leakage. The oil can come from the engine, transmission, final drive, hydraulic system or steering system. Take note of where the puddle is in relation to the tractor. If it is a lighter hue, has the consistency of a light maple syrup, and lacks the burned smell of combustion, it is probably from a leaking hydraulic hose from a front end loader unit. Look up above the puddle and examine hose fittings for drippage. Many hydraulically crimped fittings will leak over time and will be characterized by a prevalent drip on the fitting or an oily film covered with dust around the hose connection. Since a high pressure leak can shoot the fluid some distance to another unit component and dribble to the ground check for leaks with the tractor running and that particular circuit under stalled load. One can usually tell by this method whether the leak is just a slow drip or a shooting spray that needs immediate attention. Other areas on the hydraulics are hoses that have the rubber covering rubbed off, the pump at the front of the motor, the spool valves on the control assembly, or the drainage plugs at the bottom of the reservoir. A darker shade of brown that usually collects under the oil pan should be obvious. The engine oil will feel somewhat thicker and have that characteristic smell of being in an engine. It tends to leak out of front and rear seals or out of leaky oil pan gaskets. Oil tracers, or streaks on the engine block indicate the path that oil has traveled from parts further up, like on the valve cover or oil sending unit. After finding the location and determining the amount of leakage one can decide whether or not to make the appropriate repair. A blackish/brown color is characteristic of motor oil in an older engine that needs a rebuild. Excessive combustion blowby darkens the oil from contaminants and carbon residue. Examine the sample for the engine smell and identify the leakage point as sighted above. A dark brown oil can also be from the transmission or rear end. This sample will have the smearing qualities of molasses and smell like the 90 weight gear oil it probably is. If it is coming from the bellhousing then a front tranny seal is leaking. If it is found streaking the brake drums then it has rear wheel seals that are going bad. Housing gaskets can also drip oil as well as drain plugs that don’t have a sealing compound on the appropriate threads.

White

On occasion there might be a spot of whitish oil on the pavement. Locate the correct housing and check the dipstick to verify. Whitish oil indicates water contamination in the unit. If in the engine, evaluate the operating habits of the tractor. Does it run for short spurts without ever really heating up? Does it have an operating thermostat in it that regulates the correct operating temperature? Does it have an internal cooling leak which is characterized by consistent low coolant levels? Does the tractor sit outside in a high humidity environment without periodic operations which warm it up to full operating temperatures? Do all the entry ports to the housing have the correct weather protection devices in place? All of these conditions will cause excessive water to collect or condense in the housing and emulsify the oil causing it to become milky white. If in a housing other than the engine look for water entry in open ports, missing bolts, and the like. Change the unit with fresh oil and focus on a more regular operating schedule with complete warm up of the unit in order to evaporate off excessive moisture.

Green

Green puddles are due to antifreeze leakage. See if the fluid can be traced to the overflow tube coming from the radiator cap. If it is, check the rubber gasket integrity in the cap, the sealing surface on the radiator for nicks or grooves, and make sure that the pressure overflow spring is not broken. An overfilled radiator when cold will force extra antifreeze out when the motor warms up. Check to see if the radiator has a fill mark cast into the back of the radiator and fill accordingly. Look for bad hose connections in the cooling circuit especially where the hose ends meet the radiator. Sometimes overtightening the hose clamps will deform the inlet or outlet end causing a weak connecting spot. Misuse and build up of excessive sealing compounds cause high and low spots in the sealing surfaces which show up when the hose expands and contracts during operations. Remove the hose end, gently file off the build up of material and touch up with an emery cloth in order to restore the fresh brass surface. The raised lip encircling the radiator end is really what does the sealing so make sure that it is not crimped or dinged. Make sure the hoses are not hard and brittle but are pliable and go onto the radiator ports with a pressure that makes the hose mold to the lip. On proper hoses a sealing compound should not be necessary; make sure not to overtighten the hose clamp. Also check the radiator core for cracked tubing or leaky ends. Over time the tube ends that fasten in the top and bottom header will calcify and react with the brass causing weak spots that leak. If excessive, the core should be replaced as the internal integrity of the core itself is probably not worth salvaging. At the base of most water pumps is a hole which will leak antifreeze if the seal on the water pump is bad. This type of leak can be difficult to see because of its cramped location. Look for a steady but slow dripping or for antifreeze steaks down the front of the engine housing. Also check for the cooling drain plugs or cocks on the side of the engine to make sure it isn’t slightly open or leaking around the threads. A good teflon tape or plumber’s putty compound will stop the drippage. Another area that results in engine streaking is a bad head gasket, cracked block, or a casting plug which has lost integrity. Following the antifreeze streaking will help to identify those problems.

Red

Most power steering circuits use automatic transmission fluid as the circulating oil. Check the owners manual of your unit for verification. These red puddles can be traced to leaky pressure lines on that circuit or to bad o ring seals if the steering system has steel lines and internal housing components. Exposed steering hydraulic cylinders can also have worn packing and seals which will cause high pressure spouting or idle drippage. Some newer radiators have steering cooling chambers as an internal component. They generally have external fittings and high pressure hoses which may fray or leak over time.

Blue

Blue puddles are from washer solvent. Unless your tractor has a cab and window washer unit on it you won’t run into this one. But if you do, look for a brittle washer solvent line, a leaky washer pump or a cracked solvent container.

Yellow

A yellowish fluid streak with fine powdery edges indicates a leaking battery case. The acid has run down a housing and done a little bit of corroding as it evaporated. If excessive it will drip onto a concrete floor and leave little pits as the acid reacts with the calcium in the cement. This can be caused by extreme battery overcharging. Check the acid level and then the charging circuit for proper activity. A cracked battery case results from a lack of proper tie down equipment or, perhaps, swelling from freezing. Either way the battery should be replaced.

Hopefully recognizing and diagnosing the assorted colors our tractor leaves on the ground will help develop a new working relationship with the unit. Maybe, in time, it might even start talking to us. Or does it already?

by Curtis Von Fange

We are continuing our series on learning to talk the language of our tractor. Since we can’t actually talk to our tractors, though some of the older sect of farmers might disagree, we use our five physical senses to observe and construe what our iron age friends are trying to tell us. We have already talked about some of the colors the unit might leave as clues to its well-being. Now we are going to use our noses to diagnose particular smells.

ELECTRICAL SMELLS

While bushogging in the back field one year some rather large bushes forced some wiring to come in contact with the fan belt pulley. After a little time the wires rubbed through the wire insulation and shorted against each. An odor similar to leaving a milk carton on the stove roiled around the tractor seat. The smell of cooking plastic prompted me to shut off the tractor, quickly disconnect the ground cable from the battery and look for the problem.

Electrical odors can be the most dangerous of tractor smells. A hot wire grounding to the frame or another circuit can flash melt an entire wiring harness in a matter of seconds. If the shorted wires are near a fuel line the overheated wires can burn through a rubber gas hose and ignite the tractor. Similarly they can ignite a fluff ball of milkweed pods stuffed under the radiator cowling or a ball of oil soaked grass wedged behind the steering box or under the battery plate. It is important to recognize the particular odor that this threat puts out. Since the smell is actually the plastic insulation melting and/or burning off of the copper strands of the wire the characteristic odor is almost the same as what a plastic bottle in a burn can would smell like. Another example would be the hairdryer that your daughter or wife overuses in the morning. That particular odor is a marker to shut off the tractor and look for problems. If possible always carry a battery wrench in your tractor tool box and quickly disconnect the negative battery cable end from the terminal post in order to minimize the damage potential.

After I got the tractor shut off I was able to locate the errant wire by looking for obvious wire rubbing and then checking the wire casing for rub-throughs. In many cases by the time the battery gets disconnected the wire has already done a job of melting the insulation. By tracing the melting to the furthest point away from the battery the bad spot can usually be identified. Look for rubbed wires against metal or places where the wire has crimped back on itself or even melted though another crossing wire. Also look for wires that pass underneath fixtures like the radiator or cowling. Sometimes a bushing will wear out and cause a fixture shift which will crimp or crack a wire.

ANTIFREEZE

One of the most prominent odors is an overheated engine steaming out antifreeze. Just about everyone is acquainted with the sweet, syrupy smell that boiling coolant gives off. Usually it accompanies a broken radiator hose or a rusty radiator cap that has lowered the coolant pressure enough to let antifreeze pour over the fan and onto the rest of the engine and, from there, onto the operator. It is really handy to recognize the antifreeze smell before the soaking occurs. The smell is characterized by a sweet almost sugary odor. When noticed the tractor should be shut off and the leakage spot determined. Look for pin holes in the radiator and/or corresponding hoses, the cap, overflow tube, or water pump bushings, seal, or gaskets. Check the temperature gauge to see if the leakage is a result of overheating or a potential cause for overheating.

FUEL

Fuel smells, like electrical, can be a serious hazard if not located and repaired. Other than a result of spillage during tank fillage or a case of severe engine flooding, there should be no odor from diesel or gasoline fuel systems. A strong fuel odor is characteristic of a leaking fuel pump, a broken fuel line, or a leaking fuel tank. Other sources can be an overchoked carburetor filling the air intake line with raw gas, a leaking fuel injection pump, or loose injector. Loose fuel in the wrong places can rapidly turn to vapor on a hot engine and be ignited by hot exhaust manifolds, sparking distributors or loose exhaust pipes which spit sparks. Take care not to operate the unit with stray fuel leaking out.

OIL

Another of the more common smells is that of burning oil. This odor is quite similar to burning cooking oil on an overheated iron skillet. It seems to show up the most from the bottom of leaky valve covers, with the dirty oil dripping down on the exhaust manifold. The oily aroma is potent and easily smelled, especially when the tractor is shut off....the smell just kind of lingers. Replace the gaskets under the leaking part before the oil residue builds up and creates a hardened oil crust which is unsightly, collects dust and dirt, and is really difficult to clean off.

FRICTION DISCS

All of the above smells are indicative of relatively cheap repairs. Unfortunately, because they tend to be cheap, they never get fixed. On the other hand when the aroma of burning high temperature friction discs crosses ones’ nostrils immediate attention should be done. The smell can be easily associated with that of overheated truck brakes on a narrow mountain road or that of ones son or daughter trying to get manual transmission car out of a snow bank for the first time. Unlike the smell of oil or possibly antifreeze, it is wise to discontinue activity as soon as the odor comes to the driver’s seat. Internal brake discs and friction clutches are not only expensive but are hard to get to and the associated pressure plates and flywheel surfaces can often be damaged by the excessive heat buildup. Take care to find give adequate cool off time for the discs before trying to resume the activity.

Taking the time to acquaint oneself with the assorted odors that a tractor gives off can be very beneficial to extending the lifespan and service time of your unit. Tractor odors can be the first line of defense for catching problems before they occur because one doesn’t have to actually isolate and see the problem. The particular smell can catch ones attention while watching a bushog or can be a definitive identifier while working at night or under inclement conditions. These odors are yet another way of learning how to communicate with our old iron....maybe those older farmers knew something after all....

by Curtis Von Fange

In this series we are continuing to learn the fine art of listening to our tractor in hopes of keeping it running longer. One particularly important facet is to hear and identify the particular noises that our mechanical beast makes. Even though our attention is usually focused on the task at hand, that is, the bushogging, disking, etc., it is odd how our ears will pick up the smallest unusual noise that it hears. It's like listening to an orchestration of music and hearing the flutist make a misguided squeak on the instrument. For some reason that wrong note sticks out over everything else that is right. It's the same way with the steady hum drum of the tractor. An unusual noise will stand out like a sour note and immediately draw our attention. It is important to recognize those sour notes and make the appropriate decisions on what the problem might be.

Temperature Related

Many noises are temperature-related noises. For example, when the tractor is first started up one might notice a ticking sound coming from the side or top of the motor. After the engine warms up the ticking may disappear and not show up anymore until the next morning. This is usually attributed to either hydraulic lifters on the newer tractors or the tappet clearances on older ones. Hydraulic lifters are like small hydraulic pistons that take the rotary lift from the cam shaft and transfer the motion to linear lift through the push rod to the rocker arm. When the oil is cold and the lifters are old accumulated varnishes in the lifter causes the piston to remain collapsed. When the oil warms up sufficiently the piston bore expands enough to let it move up and down in the bore of the lifter. If there is extreme varnish in the bore then the lifter will tick even after warm up. Sometimes an oil additive will be adequate to help dissolve the varnish buildup and help the lifter quiet down. If the lifters are noisy all the time they should be replaced to prevent rocker arm damage. On the older style tractors the engines used solid lifters with an adjustment between the push rod and rocker arm called the tappet clearance. An excessive tappet clearance will cause a noisy tapping or ticking sound especially when the engine is cold. After warm up the metal parts expand and close up some of the looseness. Check the engine manual for proper clearances and the appropriate temperature for testing and adjusting the tappets.

Another cold related noise is the high pitched squealing sound either from the front of the tractor or underneath the seat. This sound is usually related to a pump trying to move cold oil. It can be the engine oil pump, the hydraulic pump in the front of the tractor, which runs the loader, or, perhaps, the hydraulic pump in the final drive casing which runs the three-point hitch. Best advice is to keep the engine rpm's relatively low until the oil warms up enough to circulate freely. One also might check the oil viscosity number to make sure the correct weight is being used for the corresponding outside temperature. After the tractor has warmed up sufficiently this noise will usually disappear. If the hydraulic pump still likes to squeal when the loader valves are actuated check to make sure the pump has the correct inlet and outlet hoses attached. For example, if the outlet hose is too large the pump may be pumping the hydraulic oil out of the pump faster than the inlet hose can deliver the oil from the reservoir. This condition, called cavitation, can cause excessive wear on the pump because it could be operating under no oil conditions. It is always wise to let the tractor idle for a little bit to let the fluids come up to normal operating temperatures before putting the unit in working conditions.

A more ominous noise is the deep throaty knock that comes from the engine after it initially starts in the morning. This noise can disappear quickly after the oil starts to circulate. When clearances get excessive on the crankshaft journals the oil runs out quickly after the unit is shut off. An overnight cool down shrinks the crank and accentuates the distances leaving a void between the journal and bearing. This void causes the knocking noise on early morning start-ups. It is an indicator that the bottom portion of the motor is in need of some crankshaft journal measuring and attention. If the noise persists after the oil pressure comes up or is heard while the engine is running then the motor should be switched off and the motor taken apart and repaired. If it is run for any length of time while knocking the odds get real high that the crankshaft will be permanently damaged. That spells big bucks for replacement.

Other temperature related noises include a high pitched whistling sound coming from the front of the tractor. Look for punctured or cracked radiator hoses. When pressure builds up in cooling system and the motor is overheating the coolant can shoot out the tiniest fissure in old rubber hoses. Also check for a weak radiator cap or pitted surfaces on the seating components of the cap. Occasionally there might be a deep howling noise from the front of the transmission or rear of the engine when the clutch is engaged. This usually means the pilot bushing or bearing between the flywheel and transmission main shaft has dried out and is in need of replacement. This condition can also cause a grinding of gears in the transmission when trying to shift the unit into gear from a standing still neutral position. Many times the howling will disappear after the unit has warmed up because the remaining grease in the bearing has warmed up enough to provide some lubrication. A repair should be in the near future though.

Non-Temperature Related

There is whistling sound that is independent of the temperature of the unit. Look for a partially plugged air filter or air inlet screen. Leaves, weeds, and debris will cause the air to have only a small opening to get through which causes the whistling. Remove and clean accordingly.

If a battery is not maintained adequately a layer of lead oxide will build up between the battery post and the terminal on the cable. It is recognized as a blackish crust that keeps the electricity from flowing to the starter. When the starter is engaged this type of oxidation will show up as a type of hum. It almost sounds like someone is holding down the middle C key on an accordion. Of course, the starter won't start but the hum is there. Similarly, this bad connection can also keep full voltage from getting to the starter and can imitate a low battery condition. A rapid fire clicking sounds as the starter solenoid repeatedly engages and disengages due to low voltage. Remove the battery terminals, clean with a wire brush post cleaner and try again.

One disturbing noise is a steady clicking from the transmission when the tractor is in a particular gear as it drives down the road. A missing gear tooth is the inevitable cause. Removal of the transmission cover will verify. It is best not to use that particular gear as any load can cause more teeth to dislodge, get into other gears/bearings and cause more extensive damage. If you don't really want to repair it this year, change the fluid and feel around in the housing for the missing teeth. If they are found install fresh or filtered fluid and simply don't operate the unit in the offending gear. Of course, there is no guarantee that your boy won't drive in that gear, but that is the risk I guess.

Listen for other noises like a grinding noise when the brakes are applied. Check the brakes for worn linings. Older tractors had riveted linings which, when worn down, grind into the drum leaving grooves. If caught soon enough they can be turned out with a lathe. Otherwise a new drum will be needed. Likewise, worn clutch linings will also grind into the flywheel when the clutch is engaged. This condition will quickly cause more serious damage to the flywheel and pressure plate and should be given immediate attention.

Of course there are the typical rattles and clunks that most tractors with their corresponding attachments tend to make. Look for loose three point hitch brackets, loose bolts, or just plain worn out parts. Some of these items can be procured at a farm store for replacement; others can be corrected by a simple bolt replacement. Keep in mind that the manufacturers did not intentionally send the units out in a rattling state. By locating and correcting the myriad of rattles the tractors life span will be effectively extended.

by Curtis Von Fange

One of the strangest ways to communicate with our tractor is to ask it how it feels. "Ask it how it feels," you say? Yup, ask it how it feels. Now, as with the other articles in this series one has to be able to hear what 'ole blue' is trying to say in response. The nice thing about our old iron friends is that they are usually quite consistent in their response, rather unlike some people I know who might change what they say due to the weather or other mitigating circumstances. But since this isn't a people communications class let's look at a couple of examples pertaining to our equipment.

I had a great time bushogging in the pasture the other week. It was sunny and cool and the grass wasn't so long that the seeds got in the radiator and overheated the tractor. After cutting a number of acres I sensed an occasional vibration in the tractor that just didn't feel right. My 1964 Super Dexta was speaking to me and I needed to listen. I shut off the bushog and pulled up to the barn. After inspecting the bushog drivetrain I discovered that the hub that the bushog blades were connected to had loosed on the drive box shaft. The resulting up and down movement had wallowed out the mating tines on the gearbox shaft and created a dangerous vibration which could be felt throughout the tractor. Had I had ignored the vibration the shaft would have eventually sheared in two, sending the remaining pieces like missiles up towards the tractor. It was fortunate that my sensation of something wrong was felt in the 'bad' vibrations.

Other bad vibes felt on the tractor seat can, many times, be related to the PTO shaft operations. Dried out or worn universal joints can contribute substantially to that strange 'feel'. Universals that lack lubrication will freeze up with rust and dust. As they try to roll over as the PTO shaft rotates the bearings heat up and may seize in place creating a flat spot on the race. As the engine continues to force rotation of the shaft these flat spots create what feels like a détente in the normal spin of the bearing. This 'bump' can create a tremendous vibration in the power train that can carry through the entire tractor. If left un-repaired the universal will eventually seize and fly apart sending metal shrapnel along with the PTO shaft in various directions.

Other universal joint problems may occur if the nuts on the u-bolts on the joint itself come loose. This may cause the cross of the joint to come loose in the bore and start to rapidly wear from vibration. It too might break apart under the stresses and revolution speeds of the PTO shaft.

One other area to check is the squared PTO shaft itself. In order for the implement to rise up and down with the three point hitch design the shaft must telescope in and out of a double bored shaft. Adequate lubrication will keep this in and out operation smooth and keep it from binding. Also make sure that the shaft rotates true and has no bends or fatigue cracks in it.

Other areas to check for vibrations depend on whether the tractor is in motion or not. Idling vibes while stationary can probably be traced to altered motor parts. Look for a vibration dampener that has a chunk out of it or has loosened up on the crankshaft. A bent fan blade or loose water pump bushing will also carry throughout the tractor. Internal drive parts are harder to locate and should be left to a professional mechanic. These include miscalibrated crankshaft counterweights, a broken or loose ring gear on the flywheel, loose clutch parts, a loose flywheel, or a worn pilot bushing.

If the tractor only vibrates while in motion then look for wheel related problems. A bent or loose hub, loose wheel weights or lug nuts, fluid in one tire and not the other, and mud clods on the inside of the wheel rim are a good place to start. Internal problems could include worn transmission bearings or a loose rear axle bearing or hub nut.

All in all bad vibes are bad. This can be yet another place to take the time to stop and listen as your tractor speaks to you and hopefully prevent more expensive and time consuming repairs in the future.